DKCh. Dungeon Master - 1. limited dog at Cruft 2008
LPCh. RMB Coleman Gray
The D litter resing in the playpen
The tiny seesaw is popular amongst the pups
Crate and car trained pups ready to go!
Having fun at the beach
About me I was born in 1976 and have a master degree in etology from Copenhagen University. I am furthermore a licensed clicker trainer from Canis.no.
I bought my first Aussie in 1999 - after thorough consideration. I fell so much in love with this breed that I imported two puppies from USA two year later. My first litter was born in 2003.
I may be a breeder, but breeding is far from the most important aspect. My dogs are are above anything else spoiled members of the family, which among other things means that they live in the house around us, they are involved in most of my daily activities and are never isolated in crates or kennels. Both me and the dogs enjoys hiking, in the summer often for days or weeks at the time. I do furthermore train my dogs on a regular basis, primarely obedience but also rally, agility, herding and tracking (blood).
Breeding goals Kennel Painted Magic have only few, but carefully plan litters. I breed only when I my self need a pup for training or further breeding. I believe in one Aussie who poses “the whole packet”: a healthy dog with natural working and guarding instinkt and the drive and will-to-please to do well in most dog sports. However, it is important for me to preserve a breed typical conformation (accordingly to the original standard) and of course a dead solid Aussie temper. I do however not breed show dogs, nor working dogs. My goal is an allround dog: a great family pet that can be used for hobby and sport and still looks like an Aussie.
I try to achieve these goal by carefully selection of the breeding stock. All dogs are, as a minimum cleared of HD, ED, hypothyroidism and hereditary eye diseases. They have been approved for breeding accordingly to the Danish Kennel Clubs regulations and at least one of the parent has obtained working merits. DNA test and mental profil will be conducted as to the extent possible. I do also spend a lot of time checking pedigrees to minimize the risk of doubling up on genetic weaknesses.
"Terms and conditions" Buying a pup is a matter of trust. I breed with my heart and do therefore wish the very best for all of my pups. Please ask for in the questionnaire, fill it and sent it in an e-mail. It is not an requirement but would be an advantage before the interview. At least three references must also be provided.
I do require the following for all potential puppy buyers:
- you keep the pup as a pet living in the house. No kennels or crates - you take the first week off from work - that you and the pup participate in a puppy training program - that the pup have the eyes check at least twice in the his/her life - that the pups has been hip/elbow x-rayed before it is 3 years old - that the pup are not sold, handed over or put to sleep without my approval - you stay in touch at least once a year
All pups are sold at the age of 9 weeks primarily on co-ownership.
The puppies have been thoroughly evaluated for temper, structure and workingabilities and will based on this be matched with their future owners. It is therefore extremely important that you are 100% honest about your wishes, experiences and expectation! Please note that I don’t sell pups based on their color or tail lenghts. New owners are told which pup they are offered to buy at the age of about 8 weeks.
The puppy are sold with:
- pedigree from the Danish Kennel Club (FCI) - health and eye check at 8 weeks - ISO chip - the first shot - pet passport - three treatment against worms - a puppy "book" with info and pictures of the pup, parents and littermates - food for the first couple of weeks
Growing up The pups spend the first three weeks in my bedroom secluded from the rest of my dogs. During this period, visitors are not allowed, but the socialization is already started by handling the pups on a daily basis. From overseas Aussie breeders, I have encountered the “Super Puppy Exercises” which is a series of small exercises, the young pup is exposed to daily through the first two weeks. These exercises should later in life increase the dogs ability to handle stress etc.
When the pups are three weeks old is future owners more than welcome to visit the pups as often as they like. At this age they will also be introduced to solid food. The pup will mainly be fed a quality raw diet. I have however chosen to give them a bit of quality kibbles too in hope that the switch to dry food will be easier.
The puppies will from the age of three weeks be presented for all sort of different objects in order to arouse curiosity and courage. In the beginning only “safe” things like balls and toys, but later also larger things that may seem scary such as umbrellas, things that moves or make noises etc. The puppies will at this age also slowly be moved to the puppy-pen in the sitting room and very important meet the rest of dogs. They will first of all get used to life in a modern family and living in a stabile group with several adult dogs will teach the pups one of the most important lessons in a dogs life: to be a dog and learn to communicate with other dogs.
The puppy-pen will from the age of 4 weeks be "transformed" into a playpen with different kinds of small obstacles, that - in a safe way – will strengthen the puppies' coordination, body control and confidence. The pups will also, depending on the weather, be presented with the outside world and I start the house breaking as soon as they they feel safe outside.
The pups are introduced to the harnest at the age of about 5 weeks and they will, if they are ready, take their first "walk" down the road a week later. 8 weeks old we take them for a walk in a quiet suburban neighborhood and 9 weeks old in the city. The pups will also have driven in the car at least a handful of times at this age.